Curious Florence: The legend of Berta
We’re in 1327 Florence,
dominated by the Catholic Inquisition, and Florentines are about to witness
the execution of Cecco d'Ascoli, who
during his lifetime was a poet, physician, teacher, philosopher, astronomer and
astrologer. Unfortunately, it was precisely this last occupation that sealed
his fate and earned him a death sentence.
Two years prior, Carlo, Duke of Calabria and son of King Robert of Anjou, was
proclaimed lord of Florence and for the next three years led the Guelphs in
their struggle against the Ghibellines. The king had appointed Cecco d'Ascoli
as the Duke's court physician, but Charles grew to dislike him for having cast
a negative horoscope for his daughter, the future Queen Joanna of Naples, and
for having also divined the future descent into Italy of Emperor Louis the
Bavarian, with whom the king was in conflict.
Thus, poor Cecco d'Ascoli was accused of witchcraft and condemned to the stake.
Unfortunately, these were dark times for men of science and anyone who made
enemies of the wrong people...
But let’s get back to the day of the execution. Cecco was about to be led to
the stake, forced to parade through the city streets, under the gaze of curious
Florentines, who had gathered to see the condemned and were looking out of their
windows.
He stopped for a moment at the corner of Via de Cerretani, in front of the
church of Santa Maria Maggiore, begging for some water. Here, a woman leaning
out of a tiny window urged the guards to continue, saying that the condemned would
not burn if they gave him something to drink. This was because, according to
belief, "sorcerers" had the power to manipulate water to save
themselves from the flames. So Cecco cursed her: "And you will never get your head out of there!"
According to legend, the woman was
instantly petrified, and it is her very head that’s still visible today on the
church wall. The Florentines affectionately call her "Berta".
This head sculpture is rarely noticed, but those familiar with the story know
where to look.
Legend aside, the sculpture's origins and why it was placed on the church wall
are unknown. It could be a decoration dating back to the Middle Ages, an
apotropaic statue, designed to ward off evil spirits. We'll never know, but we
like to think that it really is Berta, still petrified and waiting for someone
to lift her curse. A fitting punishment for denying a man unjustly condemned
his last sip of water!
