A Tuscany's icon: Fiasco
In
English-speaking countries, the term "fiasco" refers to a failure,
but in Italy, especially in Tuscany, the term a fiasco is only used for drinking
wine!
The
fiasco is a flared glass bottle with a round bottom, covered with straw. Its
origins are very ancient, dating back to around the 14th century, or at least
the first written and painted testimonies of its existence date back to this
period.
The
first literary reference appears to be the one given by Giovanni Boccaccio in some novellas of the Decameron, written between 1348 and 1353. Fiaschi (plural for fiasco) are mentioned several times, bearing witness to the
misadventures of the characters in Boccaccio's stories.
That
glass flasks of wine were being produced as early as the mid-14th century is also
confirmed by a pictorial testimony by the painter Tomaso da Modena in the
Church of San Niccolò in Treviso. In the 1352 fresco, he depicts Saint Jerome
studying ancient texts. Hanging on the wall next to him is a small fiask covered with string, presumably containing fortified wine to warm the body
during the winter or ink for writing.
The
presence of flasks of wine in a work by this artist is not surprising, considering
that in Modena, his hometown, a furnace operated by Florentine glassmakers had
been active since the first half of the 14th century.
The
fiasco appears in numerous paintings and still lifes from the 14th century
onwards. Some famous examples include Sandro
Botticelli's Feast for Nastagio degli
Onesti (1483), which shows large fiaschi next to a stump in the woods;
the maid carrying a fiasco in Domenico
Ghirlandaio's fresco depicting the Birth
of John the Baptist (1485–1490) in the Tornabuoni Chapel in the
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella in Florence; and later, in the 17th century,
the wine fiaschi featured in Jacopo
Chimenti's still lifes.

In Florence, evidence of the production of these iconic straw-covered bottles can be found on Via della Condotta. This was the site of the Canto dei Fiascai ("canti" in ancient Florence referred to the corners formed by the intersection of two streets), where numerous artisan workshops gave fiaschi their woven straw support, necessary to make them stand upright.
In the 19th century, we know that glass fiaschi were produced primarily in the area between Pontassieve and Rufina, and “fiascaie” used to cover them with straw.
Fiaschi were never thrown away, but almost always had a second life. They were used to hold liquids other than wine and even to cook beans: the glass bottle was stripped of its straw cover and filled with dried beans, water, and aromatic herbs, then placed among hot coals that slowly cooked the beans.
The fiasco is still used today by local winemakers and is the star of the Carro Matto parade in Florence, a cart made up of around 1,500 wine flasks that arrive in the city from Rufina on the fourth Saturday of September.
Although
ordinary wine bottles are used today, the fiasco is still a constant presence on
Tuscan tables, especially in the homes of grandparents, who still buy wine from
relatives with vineyards and small local producers, stored in the iconic
straw-covered bottle.
