Panettone or Pandoro? The age-old dilemma

Nothing divides Italians more than the choice between Panettone and Pandoro, the Christmas cakes par excellence.

Between the two, Panettone is certainly the one with the most ancient origins. In fact, we’re talking of a recipe that has its roots in a tradition dating back to the times of the Roman Empire, when cakes or breads sweetened with honey were prepared.

This recipe then underwent various changes over the centuries. It seems that in 600 AD, these sweet "loaves" were made with corn flour and grapes, while in the Middle Ages it was use to prepare rich breads in a similar way, to be served in front of the fireplace where the Christmas Stump burned. We need to get to the 1800s to start talking about yeast in this recipe, to which sugar and eggs were also added.
It is in the early twentieth century that Panettone as we know it today was born, made of flour, egg, butter, raisins and candied citrus fruits, which Angelo Motta created in the typical high shape, puffy at the top, inspired by an Orthodox Easter cake called kulic.

The actual birth of this Christmas cake, however, remains shrouded in mystery.

According to the legend, Panettone was born in Milan at the court of Ludovico il Moro, when the baker burned the cake he was preparing for the banquet on Christmas Eve. A man who worked in the kitchen, a certain Toni, tried to save the situation by using a block of yeast that he had saved and kneading it with flour, eggs, sugar, raisins and candied fruit, until a very soft dough was obtained. The result was appreciated so much by the Sforza family, that they decided to call the new surprising dessert "pan de Toni" (Toni's bread), hence the term "panettone".

We don't know how much truth there is to this story, but what really matters is that somehow such a delicious recipe was passed down to us, and is today also available in other more creative variations that include ingredients such as limoncello, pistachio or chocolate.

The other protagonist of the Italian Christmas is Pandoro, which has Veronese origins.
The name was registered on 14 October 1894 by Domenico Melegatti, but the recipe was born as early as the 13th century as nadalin, flatter than the current pandoro and covered with icing.

Pandoro, on the other hand, is a star-shaped cake, very soft and tall, which is sprinkled with icing sugar.

The flavor is similar to that of Panettone, but it has a stronger vanilla flavor and does not contain candied fruit or raisins nor has any toppings. It is a simpler dessert, particularly loved by kids, and perfect to be dipped in hot milk on Christmas morning.

We have not yet reached a decision regarding the dispute between Pandoro and Panettone, but in the hearts and stomachs of the Italians there will certainly be room for both!